At Dior, Jonathan Anderson’s Imagination Runs Wild — But Can It Sell?

While this is certainly JWA’s most wearable and realized collection since joining the brand, I can say I still have some qualms with the show as a whole. 

I am, first and foremost, a fan of Jonathan Anderson. I think he’s a genius, and his work ethic is mythic. But… I believe he can also be a bit fanciful when it comes to his sartorial sensibilities. Overimagination in fashion can seem impossible, but when it comes down to it, the clothing needs to sell. So, while it’s great to be creative and have fun, which I would argue is what haute couture is for, the collections also need to have some viable commercial pieces.

I will say, I don’t think this is totally a bad thing. With this collection in particular, his eccentric tendencies have yielded what I would imagine will become some of the most sought-after shoes and accessories of the year. 

And, ultimately, we forget that Dior is a fun brand. A brand that serves an “over the top” client, a la John Galliano’s Dior, just as much as it caters to the conservative dresser, perhaps Maria Grazia Chiuri. 

However, I found some of the looks from the show to be a bit… heavy. Overly cumbersome. Frankly, some of the pieces just looked hard to wear. I, of course, wasn’t there, so perhaps that’s just how they appear. While I can acknowledge how “cool” some of the exaggerated shapes appear to be, I don’t think they really appeal to many buyers. 

A great example would be a few seasons ago when Marc Jacobs was making cartoonish, doll-esque garments. Do I think that was highly creative and incredible to look at: yes. Do I think they sold like hot cakes: no. 

I am enjoying seeing JWA’s references and ideas start to find their footing at Dior. Anderson knows how to create a world, and, more importantly, a world that people want to live in. I just would personally like to see his work feel more tangible. 

There was a lot within this collection that I could really easily see being worn and strutted down the avenues. But… there was still plenty I couldn’t grasp. I like to consider myself a VERY open minded consumer of style, but I am still having a hard time digesting some of what’s being served to me here.