Reading the Runway: SS27

Pumpkin spice is back on the menu, signaling the leaves to change and the weather to cool.

While we start to grab our trenches, let’s not forget that September also kicks off fashion month (Happy Fashion New Year!). After analyzing dozens of brands that showcased at New York Fashion Week, let me give you the scoop on what trends will be taking off the runway and which ones to keep your eyes peeled for in the other fashion weeks to come.

First, we need to address the repeats: What trends are sticking around for next spring/summer?

The obvious answer is sheer, lace, and sparkle; these girls aren’t going anywhere. The slightly less obvious? Fringe, animal print, and asymmetrical hemlines. But these three are getting some extra love with their revamps on the catwalk.

I saw fringe on practically every runway. Monse, Simkhai, Carolina Herrera—the list goes on. Thom Browne’s take on the trend, with bedazzled fringe embellishments added to classic blazers, is a personal favorite of mine. The long ribbons on the cuffs also echo fringe. Ugh, I love his mind.

Animal print again…who’s shocked? The pattern-argued-neutral is seeing some newness through different colorways. Proenza Schouler and Sergio Hudson are showing us that maybe red and pink tigers do exist.

Carolina Herrera is continuing the brooch trend with its collection, adding a zebra to its boat-neck trench.

Asymmetry is a fluid trend because it can be cut, draped, and layered. As long as a garment reads as asymmetrical, it can be constructed in diverse ways.

Michael Kors cut funky high-low dresses, Jane Wade draped ruffles and pleats, and Anna Sui layered skirts over pants. All different, all asymmetrical.

Now that I’ve eased you into my forecast with some familiar faces, let’s discuss some fresh ones. The funny thing about trends is that they’re new takes on what’s already present.

Jane Wade Spring 27’

Let’s revisit sheer, lace, and sparkle real quick. When these design elements are part of an outfit, what is the main takeaway? Subtle, sexy, and revealing. So what’s the new spin? Long necklaces, plunging necklines, and cutouts. Walk with me here. These fresh trends appeared in different formulas, ranging from literal interpretations to more figurative ones.

Khaite and Sandy Liang took the latter approach, mimicking plunging necklines and cutouts. Khaite styled unbuttoned shirts and bras that crisscrossed, exposing skin. Sandy Liang had a faux-plunge moment with lace and satin ribbon details. What a chic way to bridge the old with the new.

Taking the literal route, we have bohemia and sport up to the plate. Ulla Johnson paired lacy deep V-necklines with matching jewelry, and Michael Kors’ missing shapes were filled with dangling ones.

The brand that takes the cake with this trend trio has to be 7 For All Mankind. Nicola Brognano has messy down to a science, concocting the perfect nonchalant It-Girl collection. Mini skirts and micro shorts with added zippers just to be unzipped. Layering pearls and gold chains with obnoxiously long skinny scarves. Shirt collars touching belly buttons. Truly a ménage à trois.

There’s something revealing about the way familiar trends return: rarely unchanged but always with something new to say. This season, that language feels decidedly more sensual. Misbuttoned tops, crooked collars, undone belts, and plunging necklines are making a strong case for fashion’s latest love affair. So, does sex still sell? Judging by New York’s runways: yes. The question now is which of these ideas will gain momentum across the capitals and which will remain in the Big Apple. For now, I’m keeping the spice in my cup and letting the runways handle the rest.