Notes From Milan Fashion Week
Tis the season! Wishing you all a very merry Milan Fashion Week. Let’s cut to the chase. I’m sure that you, like me, are busy, so let’s talk shows and clothes!
Thom Browne
If at this point you’ve managed to avoid Thom Browne, then you’re trying to on purpose. While this isn’t my favorite show of his ever, I found so much, technically speaking, to drool over. The texture and layering were absurd, with a big emphasis on hats and accessories. I was also very happy to see the contrast collared shirts. I’m always a fan of a banker’s shirt. Unsurprisingly, the collection was dense but never overdone. Nothing felt too crowded, even with the heavily terraced styling of the garments. All I know is that if I don’t get a short suit in gingham very soon, I will be heard from.
State of Chaos
Wonderfully edited and considered. I can only imagine that the materials and the feel in person were out of this world. It’s sort of Rick meets ERD meets Colleen Allen. The item TO HAVE for me was the oversized orange sweater. I’m a die hard fan of this genre of fashion, but unfortunately I can’t pull it off. So whenever a brand like this creates a slightly more approachable piece, I naturally gravitate toward it.
Brunello Cucinelli
A fantastic fucking presentation. The denim suit is show stopping. I wasn’t loving the cut of the pants, not because I think they’re technically flawed, just because they aren’t my style. Crisp, crisp, crisp tailoring. The colors are so precise. That pale yellow is just so... If Celine is the cool son, then Brunello is his chic father. What I love is that it manages to feel completely singular. They walked a very fine line, but I never felt they crossed over into looking too Ralph.
Raimondi
Big fan. Huge! It felt like Phoebe Philo for the boys. Really funky, really clean, and also sexy in a Haider Ackermann, Tom Ford, Husbands sort of way. This is the kind of man who causes a hush to fall over the room when he walks in. I love that nothing feels like it would wear you. There are some avant garde brands where, if you don’t embody the pieces just right, they swallow you whole. Raimondi isn’t making those pieces. They’re unique, but they aren’t intimidating. Bravo.
Qasimi
So cool. I am dying to see what these pieces look and feel like in person. They’re so concrete and cohesive without feeling heavy. Everything feels visually light. It’s unusual, yet incredibly utilitarian. I love that everyone looks like they’re on their way to work at a very chic office. It’s eccentric, but pragmatic. A realistic dreamer. It sounds oxymoronic, but you know exactly what I mean, don’t you?